Source
Scent and Flavors (كتاب الوُصلة إلى الحبيب في وصف الطيّبات والطيب) is a 13th century Syrian cookbook that was translated by Charles Perry. The recipes in the book primarily represent “the cuisine of the Ayyubid rulers of thirteenth-century Syria.” (xxix) Although Perry also suggests these books were intended for “practical household use” given the fact that so many copies were made and so many copies survived. More copies of this particular book survived than all the other medieval cookbooks combined. (xxix) There are four recipes for molokhia in this book (6.23-6.26) and two references to molokhia (5.38, 6.53).
Takeaways
- All reference minced molokhia except for the fourth and final version (6.26) which does not specify a specific cut. It uses phrases like, “boil meat as usual” however, which suggests that the reader should follow the base preparations from the previous recipes, to include mincing the leaves.
- The molokhia recipes do not mention rice, but there is a similar stew called kuzbariyyah (5.38, 5.39) that is served with sieved pounded rice (perhaps similar to congee?). The original text states, و هو من الأطعمة الغريبة, in reference to the pounded rice. Charles Perry translates this as “this is a remarkable dish.” I wonder if “unusual” is a better translation for غريبة, in reference to the texture that results from sieved pounded rice. Especially if this is not a common technique and it is in fact adopted from how congee is prepared in China.
- All variations call for fresh and dry coriander and plenty of garlic. Version 6.24 suggests it should be adjusted to the disposition of the diner, which leads me to think that some people prefer an exaggerated amount of garlic.
- All variations suggest some sort of boiled meat and meatballs that are fried in tail fat and served alongside molokhia.